Having spent the morning walking around sites from Agatha
Christie and ‘Midsomer Murders’, my afternoon was to be spent in Oxford, a
location most associated with another fictional detective, Chief Inspector
Endeavour Morse (whose locations I will also highlight), but which may
feature in the Sherlock Holmes canon also, as it not clear from Watson’s
depiction of the university town of ‘Camford’, whether Professor Presbury worked
in Cambridge
or Oxford. Holmes may also have attended Oxford University himself, making
friends with Victor Trevor and Reginald Musgrave.
It was, however, Oxford where Father Ronald Knox was a
fellow. In 1928, Knox published ‘Essays in Satire’ which included ‘Studies
in the Literature of Sherlock Holmes’, the first of the genre of
mock-serious critical writings on Sherlock Holmes and mock-historical studies
in which the existence of Holmes, Watson, et al. is assumed, now referred to as
‘the game’. He had previously, along with his three brothers, sent a
letter to Arthur Conan Doyle in 1904, highlighting inconsistencies in the
‘Sherlock Holmes’ stories. He is also known for his ‘Ten Commandments of
Detective Fiction’ that describe a philosophy of writing in which the
reader can participate, attempting to find a solution to the mystery before the
fictional detective reveals it.
Alighting from my bus on the High Street, it was a
short walk to my first stop, The Chequers Inn, a fifteenth-century building
which became a tavern in c1500. This inn would seem to confirm that the visit
to Professor Prestbury in ‘The Creeping Man’
was to Oxford, as Cambridge does not have an inn named ‘The Chequers’.
“Tomorrow, Mr. Bennett, will certainly
see us in Camford. There is, if I remember right, an inn called the Chequers
where the port used to be above mediocrity and the linen was above reproach. I
think, Watson, that our lot for the next few days might lie in less pleasant
places” – Holmes [CREE]
It was then a short walk to my first Oxford College of
the afternoon, St. John’s College which was identified by Roger Lancelyn Green
as being ‘St Luke’s’ in ‘The Three Students’,
where a tutor, Mr. Hilton Soames, had been reviewing the galley proofs of an
exam he was going to give when he left his office for an hour. When he
returned, he found that his servant had accidentally left his key in the lock,
and someone had disturbed the exam papers on his desk leaving the three
students who will take the exam live above him in the same building as the main
suspects.
“You are aware, Mr. Holmes, that our
college doors are double—a green baize one within and a heavy oak one without.
As I approached my outer door, I was amazed to see a key in it. For an instant
I imagined that I had left my own there, but on feeling in my pocket I found
that it was all right” - Hilton
Soames [3STUD]
“The sitting-room of our client opened by
a long, low, latticed window on to the ancient lichen-tinted court of the old
college. A Gothic arched door led to a worn stone staircase. On the ground
floor was the tutor's room. Above were three students, one on each storey” –
Watson [3 STUD]
The recently departed Nicholas Utechin also chose this college as Holmes’ on
the basis that an Edmund Gore Alexander Holmes went up there in 1869 on a
scholarship, a George Musgrave and a John Escott (Holmes’ pseudonym in ‘Charles
Augustus Milverton’) also attended the college at the relevant times. This
would also explain the otherwise mysterious comment in ‘The Three Students’
that Holmes knew the door structure in the college. St John's is the wealthiest
college in Oxford, with a financial endowment of £600 million as of 2020,
largely due to nineteenth-century suburban development of land in the city of
Oxford of which it is the ground landlord. St. John’s is also Morse’s college
in the book, ‘The Riddle of the Third Mile’.
Retracing my steps, I passed the Randolph Hotel, which
appears in ‘Inspector Morse’ TV episodes ‘The
Wolvercote Tongue’, ‘The
Infernal Serpent’, ‘Second Time
Around’, ‘The Wench is
Dead’, and ‘The
Remorseful Day’. Next, I popped
into a bookshop, ‘Book Stop’, which had wallpaper on the stairs down to
the basement featuring three ‘Sherlock Holmes’ book covers (along bizarrely
with the cover to the novelisation of 'Doctor Who' story ‘Full Circle’).

Back on the street, another short walk brought me to
Trinity College, where in 1910, Father Ronald Knox became a fellow. The college
was founded in 1555 by Sir Thomas Pope, on land previously occupied by Durham
College, home to Benedictine monks from Durham Cathedral. It was founded as a
men's college and has been coeducational since 1979. Trinity has produced three
British prime ministers (William Pitt the Elder, Lord North & Spencer
Compton), placing it third after Christ Church and Balliol in terms of former
students who have held the office. Knox’s room, No. 84 was located on the
ground floor on the right side of the Garden Quad. Unfortunately, due to
building work taking place there was no access to the College, and I had to
make do with photos taken through protective fencing. Trinity College also
appears in Morse episodes ‘The Last Enemy’,
‘The Wench is Dead’ and ‘Twilight of
the Gods’.


Opposite the College was Turl Street, a possible
location for Holmes and Watson’s hansom cab ride to meet Professor Prestbury in
‘The Creeping Man’. Turl Street also appeared in ‘Deadly Slumber’.
“A friendly native on the back of a smart
hansom swept us past a row of ancient colleges and, finally turning into a
tree-lined drive, pulled up at the door of a charming house, girt round with
lawns and covered with purple wisteria”
- Watson [CREE]
One of these ‘ancient colleges’ is Exeter College, the
fourth-oldest college of the University, where in both print and television, Morse
collapsed in the front quad with a heart attack in ‘The Remorseful Day’.
The College was founded in 1314 by Devon-born Walter de Stapledon, Bishop of
Exeter, as a school to educate clergymen. It is also the alma mater of my own
father, and of Philip Pullman whose play ‘Sherlock Holmes and the Adventure
of the Sumatran Devil’ (later renamed 'Sherlock
Holmes and the Limehouse Horror') was partially responsible for my
interest in Holmes. (Pullman renamed
Exeter as ‘Jordan College’ in his ‘His Dark Materials’ books). Other
Exeter College alumni include J. R. R. Tolkien, Richard Burton, Roger
Bannister, and Alan Bennett.

A little way further on was Brasenose College, which
began as Brasenose Hall in the thirteenth-century, before being founded as a
college in 1509. The library and chapel were added in the mid-17th century and
the new quadrangle in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The exterior of Brasenose acted as the
exterior of ‘Brompton School’ in ‘Young
Sherlock Holmes and the Pyramid of Fear’ (1985). It also appears several times in ‘Inspector
Morse’, including as the fictional ‘Beaumont College’ in ‘The Last
Enemy’.
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A short distance away was Merton College. Its
foundation can be traced back to the 1260s when Walter de Merton, chancellor to
Henry III and later to Edward I, first drew up statutes for an independent academic
community and established endowments to support it. An important feature of de
Merton's foundation was that this "college" was to be self-governing and
the endowments were directly vested in the Warden and Fellows. It was at Merton
College that the first reading of Father Knox’s paper, then entitled ‘The
Mind and Art of Sherlock Holmes’, is thought to have taken place, on Friday
10th March 1911, in the room of Reginald Diggle, a member of the college’s
Bodley Club. It also appears in ‘The
Service of All The Dead’ and ‘The Infernal Serpent’. The College
was just closing to visitors, so again I had to take some photos through the
doorway.


My final University College of the day was the
impressive Christ Church College. This was founded in 1546, one of the most
prestigious colleges with 13 British Prime Ministers (including Gladstone),
philosophers (eg. John Locke), reformers (eg. John Wesley) and scientists (eg.
Robert Hooke) amongst its alumni. It is also the only Oxbridge college to also
be a cathedral.
In his seminal essay, Knox stated that he believed
Holmes attended Christ Church. He seems to have named Christ Church due to its
prestige, elitism and wealthy clientele which he stated explained Holmes’
isolationism when at university. Roger Lancelyn Green stated Holmes left
Cambridge after two years and embarked on a new course of study at Christ
Church Oxford. He quotes both a Holmes (R E H Holmes) and a Musgrave as being
at Christ Church. Unfortunately, entry tickets for the College had sold out, so
again it was photos through a doorway. Christ Church features in ‘Twilight
of the Gods’ and ‘The Daughters of Cain’, as well as in the first
two ‘Harry Potter’ films as part of Hogwarts.


It was then time for a final visit, outside the City
Centre, catching a bus from a nearby bus stop to Radley College, an independent
boarding school for boys, near Radley, Oxfordshire, which was founded in 1847.
Radley is one of only three public schools to have retained the boys-only,
boarding-only tradition, the others being Harrow and Eton).
Old Radleians include (comedy Sherlock) Peter Cook, Desmond Llewellyn (James
Bond’s Q, and guest star in two Clive Merrison dramatisations,
ironically including ‘The Three Students’), and (Sherlockian author)
James Lovegrove. However, it was for its brief starring role as one of the
quads of ‘Brompton School’ (along with Eton College) in ‘Young Sherlock
Holmes’ that I wished to visit it.
I had initially believed that I would be able to get
photos through railings or a doorway, but on arrival it became clear that the
College was at the end of a very long drive and comprised several buildings.
However, several others got off my bus at the same stop and began walking
confidently up the drive, so I joined them. On arrival at the main campus it
became clear that the College was hosting ‘The
European Transplant & Dialysis Sports Games 2022’, meaning that I was
able to move freely without challenge. I was aware that the part of the campus
that I needed was just next to the College Chapel, so following useful signs,
after around ten minutes I found the required quad, which was where Elizabeth
(Sophie Ward) was filmed chasing her dog.
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Photos taken and I was back at the bus stop opposite
the one where I alighted with time to spare to catch my bus back into central
Oxford. I then slowly made my way to the railway station, passing the Oxford Castle and Prison (featured in ‘The
Way Through The Woods’ and ‘The Wench is Dead’). On arrival at
the Station, I took several photos as it appears in nine ‘Inspector Morse’
episodes (almost the most used location).
Settling back on the train home,
passing the crowds at the Reading Festival, I mused on a very busy and very
successful day.