Monday, 21 August 2017

Sherlockian Sojourns #4: Esher, Oakshott & Stoke D'Arbernon

"The lowest and vilest alleys in London do not present a more dreadful record of sin than does the smiling and beautiful countryside".- Sherlock Holmes   [COPP]

Having visited Hindhead I decided to visit a few Sherlockian sites closer to home, which feature in 'Wisteria Lodge' and 'The Adventure of the Speckled Band'. I therefore made my way to Kingston by bus, catching a bus to nearby Esher. Alighting in the High Street, I made my way a short distance to my first port of call. 

'Wisteria Lodge' involves the murder of a Spanish-speaking foreigner, named Garcia that took place on a woodland path between his home (the aforementioned Wisteria Lodge') and the north-west Surrey village of Oxshott. Holmes and Watson are called in by Mr. John Scott Eccles, who was present at the Lodge at the time of the crime, and in order to investigate the crime in situ, Holmes and Watson base themselves in Esher in a comfortable suite at 'The Bull' Public House. This is a transparent alias for the famous old coaching house, 'The Bear', which was the start of my ramble.

 


Taking Claremont Lane, I passed 'Curchods', seemingly the modern incarnation of 'Allan Brothers', to whom Holmes sent a telegram prior to leaving Baker Street, requesting a list of the principal country mansions within a mile of the centre of Oxshott. Six properties were identified.


After a walk of around three miles, I reached the site where a private residence named Copseham had stood in the 1890s when the adventure took place. This had been identified by Bernard Davies, the expert on Sherlockian topography (see below) as the only possible candidate for Wisteria Lodge. I therefore took a photo of a suitable property on about the right sight.


Continuing on I reached Oxshott Station, and took a left to make my way to Oxshott Warren (called Oxshott Common in Watson's account), where the body of Garcia was found. Unfortunately a housing estate seems to have been built in the meantime, but I managed to get a photo of a woodland path that remained, as well as nearby scrubland.




My plan was then to walk to my final destination, but my legs were feeling a little tired, so I caught a train to Cobham & Stoke D'Arbenon station. Stoke D'Arbenon is believed by many commentators to be the true identity of Stoke Moran, the area of Surrey where the evil Dr. Grimesby Roylott held sway.

"I am living with my stepfather, who is the last survivor of one of the oldest Saxon families in England, the Roylotts of Stoke Moran, on the western border of Surrey." - Helen Stoner  [SPEC]

Travelling down to 'Stoke Moran' to investigate the murder of Julia Stoner in a seemingly sealed room, Holmes and Watson put up at 'The Crown' (identified as 'The Old Plough') Public House.


From their suite they could see across the open land to Stoke Moran Mansion House. However there has been a lot of building since 1893. I did, however, managed to get a photo of the view, which may feature the scene of the crime.


Returning to the station, I made my way back to New Malden by train, where a browse of the charity shops led to my obtaining a copy of a Sherlock Holmes Puzzle Book before returning home.


[In preparing my walk I was indebted to the article 'Three Distressed Gentlewomen' by Bernard Davies in 'A Gaggle of Governesses'  published by the Sherlock Holmes Society of London. ]

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