Sherlockian Sojourns - Special #2: 'It would be a great pleasure if you could come on to the Continent with me'.

May 2016 represented the 125th anniversary of the infamous struggle between the most dangerous criminal and the foremost champion of the law of their generation at Switzerland's Reichenbach Falls, as outlined in 'The Final Problem'. To celebrate the anniversary and my 40th birthday from earlier in the year, I decided to be there exactly 125 years to the day. [I had made a previous pilgrimage to the Falls eight years before, but had not made it to the legendary ledge].

Tuesday 3rd May 2016

 "For a charming week we wandered up the Valley of the Rhone. We made our way over the Gemmi Pass, by way of Interlaken. It was on the 3rd of May [1891] that we reached the little village of Meiringen, where we put up at the Englischer Hof, then kept by Peter Steiler the elder. Our landlord was an intelligent man, and spoke excellent English, having served for three years as waiter at the Grosvenor Hotel in London". [FINA]

Having negotiated passport control, I made my way to the attached train station, catching a train to Interlaken. On arrival it had started raining, so sheltering under my umbrella, I made my way into the town centre, taking multiple photos of the tourist sites.

Returning to the station, I was able to catch a train directly to Meiringen. Alighting I pulled my suitcase across the square that led to the 'Sherlock Holmes Museum', passing a statue of a familiar deerstalkered figure, until I reached Parkhotel Du Sauvage, with a plaque declaring it to be the 'Englischer Hof'.

 

Making my way inside and checking in, I was directed to my room, 215 (unfortunately not 221b!). Having spent some time watching BBC World, I popped down into the centre of Meiringen (the rain having stopped) for a quick pizza. Returning to the 'Englischer Hof', I watched some old episodes of 'Spooks' before turning in.




Wednesday 4th May 2016       (Reichenbach Day)

"At [Herr Steiler]'s advice, on the afternoon of the 4th we set off together, with the intention of crossing the hills and spending the night at the hamlet of Rosenlaui. We had strict injunctions, however, on no account to pass the falls of Reichenbach, which are about half-way up the hill, without making a small detour to see them".   [FINA]

Going down for an early breakfast, the sky seemed clear, so I was decided to start off as soon as possible. The plan was to follow as closely as possible in Holmes and Watson's footsteps, based on notes from Bernard Davies, published in the 'Sherlock Holmes Society of London Journal'.  I therefore strode off towards the Falls, passing by my base on my previous visit, Sporthotel Sherlock Holmes. Unfortunately the Reichenbachfallbahn was not running, and due to construction work going on, I could not go up the flight of stairs indicated in my directions. However, moving along a short distance, I managed to find a way up, and back on track. Passing a sign to Rosenlaui, I continued until I reached the final path up to the ledge, which involved a steep climb, but was soon standing where Holmes and Watson had.

"It is indeed, a fearful place. The torrent, swollen by the melting snow, plunges into a tremendous abyss, from which the spray rolls up like the smoke from a burning house. The shaft into which the river hurls itself is a immense chasm, lined by glistening coal-black rock, and narrowing into a creaming, boiling pit of incalculable depth, which brims over and shoots the stream onward over its jagged lip. The long sweep of green water roaring forever down, and the thick flickering curtain of spray hissing forever upward, turn a man giddy with their constant whirl and clamour. We stood near the edge peering down at the gleam of the breaking water far below us against the black rocks, and listening to the half-human shout which came booming up with the spray out of the abyss. The path has been cut half-way round the fall to afford a complete view, but it ends abruptly, and the traveller has to return as he came".    [FINA]

  

Walking along the ledge, I looked down into the abyss, and the water plunging down. I had the ledge completely to myself, and found myself wanting to shout 'Holmes' into the spray as Watson had done 125 years before. Having taken multiple photos, including of various plaques and memorials to Holmes, and myself in front of the star that can be seen from the other side of the Falls (where the funicular railway runs to).

 

 

 

Retracing my steps, slightly slower than Watson rushing back to the 'Englischer Hof', I passed a final memorial plaque. Having had a brief rest in my room, I made my way to the Museum.

 

The Sherlock Holmes Museum was opened on 4th May 1991 on the 100th anniversary of Reichenbach  (so it was its 25th anniversary that day), by Dame Jean Conan Doyle, daughter of Sir Arthur, in the English church in Meiringen.The Museum was designed by English architect couple John and Silvia Reid, and contains carefully collected authentic exhibition pieces of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Sherlock Holmes and the Victorian era. It also has a faithful reconstruction of Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson's living room in 221B Baker Street, according to clues that are to be found in the stories. In the square outside is a statue of Holmes by John Doubleday who also created the statue of Holmes found outside Baker Street Underground Station.

 

Having walked around all the exhibits at least twice, I made my way back up to the entrance and gift shop, buying anything that I hadn't on my previous visit. My shopping was only getting started, as I moved into the centre of the town and a bookshop, where I purchased a French/English – Bilingual Edition of “The Final Problem” (as well as “The Empty House” and “The Five Orange Pips”, a couple of Meiringen postcards, a stamp and a book bag with the Sherlockian quote “Nichts ist trügerischer als eine offenkundige Tatsache" ("There is nothing more deceptive than an obvious fact."  [BOSC] )

Sitting at a bench outside the bookshop, I addressed one of the postcards to myself in pencil, added a brief message, then posted in it a nearby postbox, hoping to get the postmark dated 04/05/2016. [The postcard beat me back and had the right postmark. I then erased the pencil, readdressed it to Dr. J. Watson of Queen Anne Street, before copying out Holmes' note to Watson from the Falls on the left-hand side, dated 04/05/1891]

Moving on, I made my way into the Konditorei-Tea Room Frutiger. Meiringen is famous for its meringue, and some claim that it was invented there (hence the name). However, it was for a different treat that I popped in - a praline cream with a familiar silhouette on.

Having purchased two, I made my way back to the 'Englischer Hof' for a lazy evening.

Thursday 5th May 2016

 It was time to check-out and leave Meiringen. I made my way to the station, catching two trains, including a double-decker, until I reached Zurich, from where I was to be flying home that night.

Many of my plans for the day were scuppered by it being a religious holiday meaning that many of the museums were closed for the day. However, I managed to follow a walk around the town from my guidebook, and even managed to have a river cruise.

 
All too soon it was time to make my way to the airport, but not before visiting a bookshop in the main shopping centre to purchase a German language copy of "The Hound of the Baskervilles".

Sitting back in my plane seat, I mused on a hectic but enjoyable few days.