Monday, 20 May 2019

Sherlockian Sojourns 18: "Mycroft’s Rails"


Mycroft has his rails and he runs on them. His Pall Mall lodgings, the Diogenes Club, Whitehall—that is his cycle” - Sherlock Holmes [BRUC]

As part of their ‘London Weekend 2019’, the Sherlock Holmes Society of London were proposing to retrace the steps of Holmes Senior, from his lodgings in Pall Mall to the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) on King Charles Street, where on occasions he “was the British Government” [BRUC]. Places were limited, but I managed to get one. The meeting point was at 2pm sharp at Waterloo Place, St. James’s, just next to the Duke of York column situated just above the steps down to The Mall (which Sherlock and Mary rode down on a motorcycle in ‘The Empty Hearse’). Having a few minutes to spare, I managed to wander down Pall Mall to take photos of the former sites of the Baldwin Club (one of the Card Clubs frequented by the Honourable Ronald Adair in ‘The Empty House’) and the Junior Carlton Club (believed by Dr Seth Alexander Thévoz, author of ‘Club Government’, to be the Diogenes Club). I also passed the former site of ‘Cox & Co’ which held Watson’s battered dispatch box containing details of unrecorded cases, as outlined in ‘The Problem of Thor Bridge’.

 

 

Returning to the column , which is situated next to the building that acts as the Diogenes Club in ‘Sherlock’, I joined a small group, with five minutes to spare.



Following a brief introduction by the organiser of the walk, Marcus Geisser, BSI, we strode off down the stairs, past St. James’ Park and Horse Guards Parade (where preparations were being made for a ‘Trooping The Colour’ dress rehearsal, the next day. After around ten minutes, we reached the FCO, taking the likely route that Mycroft would have done on a daily basis. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office occupies a building which originally provided premises for four separate government departments: the Foreign Office, the India Office, the Colonial Office, and the Home Office. Construction on the building began in 1861 and finished in 1868, and it was designed by the architect George Gilbert Scott. Its architecture is in the Italianate style; Scott had initially envisaged a Gothic design, but Lord Palmerston, then Prime Minister, insisted on a classical style.



Here a one hour’s private tour of the building had been arranged for our group. Photography was prohibited in some areas of the building on security grounds, but I was able to take photos of several meeting rooms which may have been frequented by Mycroft, and a ministerial room which he may also have known. We also got to look out onto Downing Street and Numbers 10 & 11. The guide was very enthusiastic, and we ended up spending an hour-and-a-half wandering the FCO corridors.









We then retraced our steps at speed to the Athenaeum Club, situated at 107 Pall Mall, one of the prime candidates for The Diogenes Club.

"There are many men in London, you know, who, some from shyness, some from misanthropy, have no wish for the company of their fellows. Yet they are not averse to comfortable chairs and the latest periodicals. It is for the convenience of these that the Diogenes Club was started, and it now contains the most unsociable and unclubable men in town” – Sherlock Holmes [GREE]

Having gained entry through one of our party who is a member, we moved to the basement where an exhibition had been created for us by the Club Archivist, relating to Watson’s Literary Agent, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s membership of this prestigious club, including his signature in the register and details of dinners that he was present at, one also including Norman Hapgood, the editor of ‘Collier’s Weekly’ in which Holmes was resurrected soon after the dinner.




The afternoon was concluded with tea and biscuits, and a visit to the Drawing Room, one of the few areas of the Club where non-members are allowed.




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