Thursday, 16 February 2023

Sherlockian Sojourns #48: 'Enola Holmes' London'

As indicated in my reviews, I thoroughly enjoyed both ‘Enola Holmes’ films. I therefore decided to visit the London locations from both films. Although the second film had Hull standing in for several parts of London, in particular the chase scene (hopefully a future Sojourn), there were still enough to fill an entire day.

Appropriately my first port of call was Baker Street station, and after a short walk down Baker Street, then along York Street, I reached the first location, the Royal Oak Public House, on the corner of York Street and Enford Street. The Royal Oak appeared as the Albion Public House in ‘Enola Holmes 2’ (2022), where Enola (Millie Bobby Brown) helps a drunk Sherlock Holmes (Henry Cavill) get home. I had previously visited the pub at night when I had time to kill before going to see ‘A Sherlock Carol’, but it was good to get better photos in the light.

Continuing along Enford Street, I turned right onto Marylebone Road, passing the Landmark Restaurant used as the exterior of the restaurant where Sherlock (Benedict Cumberbatch) reveals himself to John (Martin Freeman) in ‘Sherlock: The Empty Hearse’.

Back at Baker Street, I caught the Jubilee Line to Westminster, making my way to Enola and Sherlock’s final destination, Queen Anne’s Gate, which stood in for Baker Street in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. Known for its Queen Anne architecture, the street has been home to notable public figures, companies, and organisations. #14 was home to the politician Sir George Shuckburgh-Evelyn from 1783–88, and the judge Sir Edward Vaughan Williams, from 1836 until his death in 1875; #34 was formerly the home of Edward Tennant, 1st Baron Glenconner, and from 1962-2013, home to St Stephen’s Club, a private member’s club; # 36 was the head office of the National Trust, until about 2004.  Through comparing screenshots, 221b was #28, or one of the two properties neighbouring it  (We don’t see him going through the door).

    

    

Retracing my steps, I made my way to the HM Treasury Building, 1 Horse Guards Road, in whose courtyard Sherlock and Mycroft waited for Enola, who attended in disguise, at the end of the first film. This is a working Government Office, and is not open to the public, save on occasional Open Days as part of the Open City initiative. (The next such open day will certainly be attended by me). I therefore had to take some distant photos through a gate.

   

 

Crossing the road, I entered St. James’ Park, where Enola’s regular bench on Lord Tewkesbury’s usual route to the Lords was, in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. It was here that she is found by Tewkesbury (Louis Partridge) munching on “not so old” Dundee Cake. The bench she was sitting on was a prop, the usual park benches being wooden. The park was very busy, and I found it difficult to find the exact location. I therefore took some general photos.


 
 

The Park also appeared in ‘Sherlock: The Sign of Three’, but the bench upon which Sherlock and John sat, on the south-side of Birdcage Walk across from the Guards Museum, was also a prop, and not a public amenity. Sherlock and John are also seen to cross St James's Park Lake over The Blue Bridge, affording a spectacular view of Whitehall and the London Eye to the east and Buckingham Palace to the west.

Exiting the park, I set out towards Piccadilly, and onwards to Berkley Square, where Enola called on Lord Tewkesbury at his London address in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. I identified Tewkesbury’s residence as being at #44, actually the Clermont Club, formerly one of Britain's finest private gaming clubs. The house was built in 1740 (to the design of the architect William Kent) by Lady Isabella Finch.

      

As outlined in a previous sojourn, according to Watson in ‘The Illustrious Client’, General De Merville lived at number 104. It was also here where Kitty Winter attempted to persuade his daughter Violet, to break off her engagement to Baron Gruner. Number 3 has been identified by scholars as the true location of the De Merville residence.

It was then  a twenty-five minute walk via Conduit Street, Oxford Street and Tottenham Court Road to another square, Bedford Square, which featured as a London square in ‘Enola Holmes 2’.

   

Sitting on a bench in the square, I took the opportunity to eat my lunch, before a short walk past Russell Square where John met Mike Stamford (David Nellist) in ‘Sherlock: A Study in Pink’, reaching Montague Street, which featured as a London street in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. Montague Street was also where Holmes lived immediately on coming down from University, and first set up as a consulting detective, according to ‘The Musgrave Ritual’.

A ten minute walk then took me to Great James Street. It was outside 30-31 Great James Street, looking south, that Enola’s mother, Eudoria Holmes (Helena Bonham Carter), blew up a pillar box in the name of women’s rights, in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. Even the bollards and checkerboard pattern on the front step are included in the shot. An added metal bin, post box, a muddy road and CGI’d church contributed layers to the filmed scene.

   

Retracing my steps to the main road, I turned into Bedford Row, which I had previously visited as it featured as Baker Street in ‘Mr Holmes’ (2015), making my way to Chancery Lane. After ten minutes, I reached Carey Street which featured as a London street in ‘Enola Holmes 2’. It also appeared as a London street in ‘Mr Holmes’.

     
 

Returning to Chancery Lane, it was only a two minute walk to the Maughan Library of King’s College London (previously visited six months before). The exterior of the building doubled as the Houses of Parliament in one of the final scenes of the first film (and repeated in the second film), where Enola and Tewkesbury speak through iron railings.

    

Continuing onto Fleet Street, I made my way down to Victoria Embankment, via the gateway seen at the start of ‘Sherlock Holmes’ (2009) when Inspector Lestrade (Eddie Marsan) & Watson (Jude Law) are heading towards the Cathedral.

Catching the District Line to Aldgate East, last visited as part of my Jack the Ripper sojourn, I made my way to Fournier Street which appears prominently in ‘Enola Holmes’ (2020). The red brick buildings at the east end of the street, are where Enola’s lodgings are located in the first film. A faded ghost sign and hanging washing add to the visual effect. The bollards in the film are also there in real life. The small building on the right replaced Hawksmoor Church. Edith’s tearooms were on the west side of the street, and Lestrade meeting Mycroft in a barbers’ in ‘Enola Holmes’ was also filmed on Fournier Street.

  

  

A planned jaunt to the Museum of the Home (formerly the Geffrye Museum) in Hoxton, which includes several Victorian room replications, had to be cancelled due to the time meaning that I would miss the final entrance time of 4pm by fifteen minutes. I therefore made my way to Liverpool Street Station for the brief journey to Bank, and then onto Waterloo, and home.

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